Maryland's Best Crab Houses, Soft Shells, and Crabby Dishes - Baltimore Magazine
Crab Houses
Captain Dan's Crabhouse
Eldersburg
When we walked into this far-flung storefront in a Carroll County strip mall, we couldn't help but notice the bags of carryout orders behind the counter. Takeout steamed crabs and seafood are big business here. There's eat-in service, too, but we couldn't immediately see the dining room. Noticing our confusion as we entered through the bar, a friendly cashier directed us to a solid door that opened to a connecting room with about 10 tables. It's a bare-bones but cheery space with a mural of docked boats and photos of crab house scenes. Depending on the time of year, the cooked-to-order crabs are a mix of Maryland, Virginia, and Louisiana hard shells dusted with the kitchen's own seasoning. And the restaurant's crab expertise is evident. After all, owner Dan Schuman, who runs the crab house with his brother, Mike, has been in the business since 1971, putting time in at a Randallstown seafood market before opening Captain Dan's in 2003. Simply put, the crabs are fab.
Crab Takes: The crab house ships its seafood nationwide.
Captain James Seafood Palace and Crab House
Canton
People love to crack crabs while sitting near the water, but Captain James takes that one step further by offering guests the chance to eat crabs near the water and on a boat. Okay, it's not an actual boat, but rather a boat-shaped restaurant with an adjacent crab house which features a large deck on the water between Canton and Fells Point. That central location no doubt contributes to the restaurant's popularity, but the place wouldn't have hung around for so long if it didn't deliver quality as well. When we visited on a Friday spring evening, we found both the food and service to be stellar. The view comes with a price tag: These were among the most expensive crabs we encountered, ranging from $100 for a dozen mediums to $155 for jumbos (they're sold only by the half-dozen or dozen). They were nicely seasoned and well-cooked with sweet meat. Corn on the cob, cold pitchers of beer, and an order of delicious fries that tasted like the boardwalk rounded out our meal, which was just as good as the view of the Patapsco.
Crab Takes: Captain James Crab House is one of the last spots to offer all-you-can-eat crabs in the city (with a two-hour dining limit), available Mondays through Thursdays, from 4 to 9 p.m.
Picking just-steamed crabs at the old-school Costas Inn in Dundalk; Alfresco dining and live music at The Choptank.
The Choptank
Fells Point
At first glance, a casual visitor might not realize that The Choptank is a place to eat steamed crabs. The outdoor area has a happy-hour vibe, and cocktails flow faster than the nearby harbor waters. But once you take a seat and focus on the menu, you realize this is a crab house, after all. Before the steamed shells arrive, your table is covered with brown paper and the proper tools appear—mallet, knife, and even a shell cracker (for those more accustomed to eating lobster). While we waited for the crabs (from Louisiana on our visit and local when available) to steam, we dug into a worthy mound of seafood nachos laden with grilled fish, shrimp, and lump crab. Our half-dozen larges, coated with J.O. seasoning, were mostly plump specimens, but one was a lightweight, so the kitchen tossed in an extra crab.
Crab Takes: The Choptank is housed in the historic Broadway Market's renovated south shed, circa 1786.
Conrad's Seafood Restaurant
Perry Hall
If your crabs here taste like some of the freshest shellfish you've ever had, that's because they might be literally just out of the water. Owner Tony Conrad—a triple-threat waterman, restaurateur, and entrepreneur (who recently expanded to Harford County)—likely just disembarked from his boat after a morning of catching crustaceans on the bay. There are so many reasons to come here, from the gratis bucket of popcorn to whet your appetite to the surprisingly delicious salads (which isn't where crab houses typically shine) to the case of scrumptious sweets (strawberry shortcakes, tiramisu) or the refreshing cantaloupe crushes. But we digress. It really is all about those dependably delicious Maryland crabs, which come hot, heavy, coated in the restaurant's own proprietary seafood blend, and stacked proudly on a plastic tray.
Crab Takes: In a DIY mood? Conrad's also has its own seafood market in Parkville, where you can buy crabs live to steam at home. While you're there, grab a house-made crabby pretzel or a pound of spicy steamed shrimp to-go.
Scenes from Costas Inn: jalepeño crab poppers; steaming the crabs; rolling out the brown paper.
Costas Inn
Dundalk
Since 1971, Costas has been a stalwart of the local crab circuit and, in many ways, it is a crossroads of Baltimore, hosting everyone from families just leaving church service to port workers swinging in for a half-dozen hard shells after their shift to couples enjoying a date night. The diner-like menu, too, showcases a medley of cuisines that have settled in the eastern stretches of the city—things like Italian lasagna, Greek gyros, and, you guessed it, a whole host of dishes featuring crab. Everywhere you look, there are vintage photographs of Lexington Market and Preakness, and televisions for watching everything from NASCAR to Orioles games. Of course, there is Keno. While there's overflow seating in the adjacent dining room, grab a stool at the central U-shaped bar. The bartender will line it with brown paper, mix you a high-octane orange crush, and, rightly, steer you toward the crabby jalapeño poppers.
Crab Takes: TV personality Kathie Lee Gifford has an affinity for Costas crab cakes, once devouring them on air with her co-host, Hoda Kotb.
⇓ Article continues below ⇓
The Crab Claw
St. Michael's
There are few places in the state of Maryland more iconic or idyllic than The Crab Claw on our Eastern Shore. In operation since 1965, this waterfront crab deck and old-school dining room is a landmark for locals and tourists alike, only open during its namesake seafood's season from April through October. Unlike many local seafood houses these days, most of their crabs come from nearby waters, with the restaurant touting its working relationships with Talbot County watermen. Grab a picnic table, order a pitcher of the house beer—Crab Claw Ale, made by Devil's Backbone Brewing Co.—and indulge in over a dozen crab dishes, from crab cocktail to white crab pizza to an Old Bay-seasoned corn dog.
Crab Takes: Still a novice at picking crabs? Their placemats will teach you the tried-and-true way.
The Crackpot
Towson
The Crackpot Seafood Restaurant turned 50 this year, and like many of us who hit the half-century mark, it recently had some work done. The result was a stylish new dining room and bar area, a spiffed-up menu that blends new items like New Orleans-style beignets with its signature crab cakes and steamed crabs. Here we found the least expensive crabs we've seen in a while: $85 for a dozen larges and $95 for a dozen extra-larges. The latter were generously seasoned and pleasantly heavy. The former, while well-prepared, were noticeably lighter and a bit watery. Go for the biggest size and your taste buds—and your wallet—won't be disappointed.
Crab Takes: New owners Binod Uprety, who owns Namaste restaurant in Roland Park, and his business partners Mandira Mainali and chef Ram Thapa, have added Indian and Nepali dishes like momos and samosas to the menu.
Dock of the Bay
Sparrows Point
The Chesapeake Bay view, complete with a lighthouse, is enough to draw hungry diners to this decades-old waterside restaurant. Add steamed-to-order crabs and an outdoor deck where you can listen to the lapping bay and quacking ducks, and you're hooked. On a recent visit, our large hard shells, hailing from Louisiana and sprinkled with J.O. seasoning, were as satisfying as the setting. You can also opt to sit inside the rambling space, which includes a dining room with a sports-bar vibe and large windows to soak in the vista. Wherever you settle, you can nosh on an excellent seared-tuna appetizer or fat rockfish bites while waiting for the main event. After your meal, nab one of the Adirondack chairs on a wooden deck over a dock and linger awhile.
Crab Takes: If you need an early seafood fix, the restaurant serves breakfast, starting at 8 a.m. on weekends, offering a cream-of-crab omelet.
Floyd's Crossroads Pub
Dayton
You are indeed at a crossroads—Ten Oaks, Linthicum, and Green Bridge roads—when arriving at this cute, unassuming shack in the Howard County countryside. But you made the right decision to head here for some of the best steamed crabs around. Owners Bill and CindyLee Floyd, along with their sons Curtis Lee and Brendon, also serve up big-time hospitality in their diminutive spot, which seats about 40 in the dining room, plus a few high tops and stools in the bar area. Walls are appropriately adorned with crustacean knickknacks. You can order a minimum of three crabs; we dug into a half-dozen large Louisiana blues, coated generously with J.O. While waiting for them to steam, treat yourself to the restaurant's delicious Maryland crab soup, loaded with tons of meat swimming in a spicy tomato broth—it's the real deal.
Crab Takes: In warmer weather, the restaurant pitches a covered tent outdoors to accommodate the crowds.
Serving up steamed crab and corn at Jimmy Cantler's Riverside Inn; a cup of Maryland crab soup at The Choptank; the hand-washing station and the Old Bay-coated "Deck Fries" at Nick's Fish House.
Jimmy Cantler's Riverside Inn
Annapolis
When we pulled into the parking lot this spring, there was a literal tour bus waiting for a table at Cantler's. Normally, this would be a turn off, but once you make the winding journey to this storied Annapolis crab house situated along Mill Creek, nothing could deter you. The wooden interior is awesomely nostalgic, but we always try to sit on the outside deck. Once you're settled, split a dozen hard shells from the chalkboard menu and watch below as soft shells are freshly pulled from their waterfront shedding tanks before being fried into your platters or sandwiches (see our "Soft Spot" section below). We always get one of the latter, plus an order of their golden clam strips, too.
Crab Takes: BYOB—if you're arriving by water, you can dock your boat for free.
Jimmy's Famous Seafood
Broening Manor
We're not exactly sure how long after this behemoth of an east side institution opened in 1974 that it added "Famous" to its name, but Jimmy's has, in fact, become nationally renowned. Photos of celebrities like The Rock, Cal Ripken Jr., and just about every Raven of note hang on the wall near the entrance of the main dining room, which, like the outdoor dining space, separate barroom, and second-floor bar and lounge, were renovated during the pandemic. A boatload of crab appetizers is available, including outstanding crab imperial-stuffed mushroom caps. In March, we cracked steamed jumbos that were pricey—$75 for a half-dozen—but to Jimmy's credit, they were legitimate jumbos: heavy with tons of sweet meat. They were served with perfectly seasoned potatoes and corn, making for an excellent meal. The kind that has made the place, well, famous.
Crab Takes: With 118,000 followers on Twitter and 77,000 on Instagram (and counting), Jimmy's social media channels are among the most robust and entertaining in the local restaurant scene.
Kahler's Crabhouse
Rosedale
From the outside, Kahler's looks like a quaint cottage that's gone through a hodgepodge of additions—and that's exactly what's happened in the 50-plus years this family-owned restaurant has operated. Once inside, however, you'll find yourself charmed by this old-time Baltimore haven for steamed crabs and more. Tables are covered in white plastic, an aquarium bubbles with fish, and an assortment of whimsical crab-themed art dots the walls. An outdoor deck in a bucolic setting beckons in warm weather. We got started with several delectable crabstuffed deviled eggs and a mound of shrimp steamed just so. Our large crabs, encrusted with the restaurant's own spicy seafood seasoning, also showed care from the kitchen. After the shells are taken away, you may be tempted to order Kahler's homemade ice cream for dessert.
Crab Takes: The restaurant is BYOB and welcomes coolers.
L.P. Steamers
Locust Point
The fact that March 9—months before the official start of Maryland's crab season—is National Crabmeat Day befuddles us. But seeing as how we never need an excuse to pick up a butter knife and mallet, we headed to one of the city's most popular crab houses to celebrate this year. It was a raw, cold, rainy night, but most of the tables were taken, as usual, by a blend of locals and tourists who frequent this iconic crab house. It's easy to understand why all types are attracted to this rowhouse restaurant with pitchers of beer and ballgames playing overhead on various TVs. At L.P. Steamers you can buy large or medium-sized crabs by the dozen or single, a flexible policy that we appreciate. After a bowl of Maryland crab soup and some gooey crab dip, we cracked into a few of both sizes. They were lightly seasoned, prepared well, and, most importantly, they satisfied our craving.
Crab Takes: L.P. Steamers is one of the few places we've encountered where you can crack crabs on a rooftop deck with a view of the Domino Sugar sign in the distance. It doesn't get more quintessentially Baltimore than that.
Mike's Crab House North
Pasadena
The good-time vibe is strong at this northern outpost of the popular crab house and restaurant on the South River outside of Annapolis. The Pasadena location opened in a marina on Rock Creek in 2012, and since then, it's been a destination for locals, boaters, and general partiers alike. It's a sprawling complex with a huge outdoor bar along with a spacious bar and dining room inside. You have to respect a place that lists a crab cake on its menu under "Sides" (it's sandwiched between hush puppies and a baked potato), so we started with one. It emerged from the broiler piping hot, and for $21 in late April, it was a bargain. For our main course, we ordered a dozen large steamed hard shells for $85. We drank cold draft beer and listened to a blend of country music, yacht rock, and mallets hitting shells—the soundtrack of a good time.
Crab Takes: Customers arriving by boat can tie up for free at Dock B.
⇓ Article continues below ⇓
Mr. Bill's Terrace Inn
Essex
Even though the familiar face and banter of Steve Eliades are no longer at Mr. Bill's Terrace Inn, the fun vibe and fat crabs keeps that tradition going. Eliades, who died last September, turned his father's tavern into a seafood hotspot in 1989, naming it after his dad, Bill. Now, another generation, Eliades' daughter, April Swinder, keeps her father's legacy alive. During our visit, most tables were piled high with hard shells. We picked our way through a half-dozen large specimens. While the place is not actually an inn (and, come to think of it, doesn't have a terrace), visitors soak up Maryland's crab culture in a recently renovated room brightened with a mural depicting bay scenes and a wall adorned with sports jerseys and TVs with games playing. Brown paper covers the tables, paper towels await, and servers are attentive. And it's always a plus to have an in-room sink to wash the Old Bay off your hands.
Crab Takes: The late Eliades created the restaurant's signature spicy seafood seasoning.
Scenes from Nick's Fish House: a crab feast in progress, complete with orange crushes and mallets; crabs coming out of the steamer; a basket of blues waiting to be steamed.
Nick's Fish House
Port Covington
One of the best seats in Baltimore is on the Nick's Fish House patio beneath the Hanover Street Bridge along a wide stretch of the Patapsco River. It's not the easiest to get to, but once you arrive, you can easily transport into vacation mode, with beers sold by the bucket, four kinds of crushes, and a sprawling happy hour menu that draws in the nearby Under Armour crowd. There's something for everyone on this enormous menu, full of classic and creative takes on Chesapeake fare. The boat of crab dip is a dangerous excursion if you're not with a large party, but you won't find us sharing the lump-stuffed grilled cheese, lump-topped lobster roll, or Old Bay French fries. Check out the raw bar list for something a little lighter.
Crab Takes: On a hot summer day, consider the $70 cold seafood platter, featuring raw oysters and claws, peel-and-eat shrimp, chilled snow and Chesapeake crabs, and jumbo lump crab meat.
A crab cake platter with a side of fries and slaw at Schultz's.
Ocean Odyssey
Cambridge
You might not think that some of the best crabs you can find on the Eastern Shore would be situated at the edge of the highway. But trust us—this Dorchester County restaurant, located on the northbound lane of Route 50 in Cambridge on the way to and from Ocean City, run by 41-year-old Travis Todd, whose family has been in the seafood biz for generations, is a cut above the rest. That millennial touch is apparent in the hip white-and-black exterior, playful cocktails, and local emphasis on an elevated fish shack menu (they still abide by the True Blue program, sourcing 100-percent domestic crab meat). Go big or go home with the DoCo Poutine—aka French fries topped with cream of crab soup, cheese curds, and scallions—or the Bay On A Bun, filled with Chesapeake blue catfish, a fried soft crab, and fried local oysters with tomatillo aioli.
Crab Takes: Reserve the "Pickin' Room" of this former processing house for a private feast.
Ocean Pride Seafood Restaurant
Lutherville
Founded in 1971, this Baltimore County crab joint is one of the premiere spots for steamed sweeties, whether you're dining in or carrying out. Crabs come hot and heavy, though carryout sells out fast, so call early in the day to claim your crab. (And should you decide to up and move to, say, Seattle, Ocean Pride ships to the lower 48.) Beyond the crabs, there are plenty of other items on offer, from flatbreads to Philly cheesesteaks, as well as raw bar offerings, which are always excellent. Be forewarned: This place has zero ambiance, unless you count a bevy of big screen TVs and tin buckets for beer, but that's how you know it's the real deal.
Crab Takes: Except for Sunday night (when it closes promptly at 10 p.m.), Ocean Pride is open until midnight, should your craving for crab kick in after the 11 o'clock news and the kids have long gone to bed.
Reter's Crab House & Grille
Reisterstown
Housed between a veterinary clinic and a physical therapist in a nondescript strip mall, it's easy to miss Reter's from Reisterstown's main drag. We're glad we didn't. While it might not look like much from the outside, inside Reter's provides an inviting atmosphere that serves some of the best crabs we've had in recent memory. On a lively Wednesday in late April, the bar and dining room were packed with people feasting on oysters, crab and shrimp nachos, the prime rib special ($16.99 with two sides), and, of course, crabs. We ordered jumbos, larges, and mediums, which were priced both by the dozen and per crab. The jumbos looked perfectly fine when our friendly bartender slid them onto the paper in front of us, but the real treat—the tender and well-seasoned meat—was inside. Just like the crab house in which they were served.
Crab Takes: Although it was established in 1997, the menu still touts Reter's 20th anniversary. It's an apt embodiment of the laidback atmosphere here. No one cares that the logo is a bit dated; everyone's having too good of a time to look up from the business of cracking crabs.
Scenes from Schultz's Crab House: sorting and seasoning the crabs; the finished product; a table awaits you in the iconic dining room.
Schultz's Crab House
Essex
If you're looking for the real-deal Maryland crab house, drive out of the city and onward down Old Eastern Avenue until you get to Schultz's Crab House in Essex. Instead of finding a patio deck of paper-covered picnic tables, you'll be surprised to see a brick corner restaurant with a faded red awning, diamond-shaped window-panes, and an illuminated yellow sign beckoning you inside for "seafood & steaks." Since 1969, this family-owned, James Beard Award-winning "America's Classic," just a stone's throw from Middle River, has been the place for platters of fresh-steamed crabs, jumbo lump-topped porterhouses, and ole Bawlmer classics like sour beef and dumplings, which were on special during our last visit. You can eat at the bar, which is always packed with regulars rallying for pool, Keno, and O's on the television, or in the dining room, fit with quintessential knotty pine walls, red pleather booths, and mounted marlins.
Crab Takes: Don't leave without a to-go quart of their half-and-half crab soup.
Comments
Post a Comment