By Kathryn Miles From our December 2022 issue The line at Red's Eats, in Wiscasset, snaked around the corner on a warm Saturday afternoon this fall. Many of the customers had queued up even before the iconic stand had opened, and all were eager enough for one of its famous lobster rolls that they were prepared to wait an hour or more. No one confessed to knowing that, just a few weeks before, the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch, an agenda-setting program for sustainability-minded seafood buyers and chefs, had shocked the industry by placing Gulf of Maine lobster on its "red list" of species to avoid. Not Dodie Neo, an Ohioan retiree who'd been in line for 45 minutes when I approached her. Knowing about the red-listing, however, wouldn't have stopped her from ordering. "The aquarium has a right to put lobster on whatever list it wants," she told me. "And I have a right to eat it." Way down the road, at Highroller Lobster Co., in ...